GOLDONGO
Prospecting guide · 05

Equipment

What a stream prospector actually needs, from the starter kit to what to leave at home.

Kit for finding, not for volume

The most useful decision to make before buying anything is what a day on the stream is for. On a prospecting day you are gathering information: which bars show colours, at what depth, in which layer. That job needs a pan, something to dig with and something to keep what you find in — little else. Volume equipment belongs to a later stage, after test pans have shown that one spot is worth working.

Buying in the wrong order has a real cost. A sluice in the boot tempts you to shovel from wherever the water is convenient, and a day spent feeding it from an unproven spot teaches you almost nothing. A pan, by contrast, gives you an answer every few minutes. Beginners who carry little tend to sample more places, and sampling more places is how you learn a stream.

Weight matters for the same reason. Everything you carry has to be walked in, often over wet rock, and a heavy pack shortens the day and makes you stop at the first convenient spot rather than the right one. Keep the prospecting kit light enough to forget you are carrying it, and leave the rest in the vehicle until you know where it is needed.

The starter kit, piece by piece

The pan is the centre of the kit. A medium plastic pan with moulded riffles, in dark green, black or blue, suits almost everyone: it is light, does not rust and shows fine gold clearly. A second, smaller pan is handy for finishing concentrate. Metal pans work and last a long time, but they need the factory coating burned off and can rust, which is why most people start with plastic.

Next comes something to dig with and something to screen with. A short-handled strong shovel or a sturdy trowel moves gravel in a hole; a folding shovel is light but struggles in packed material. One coarse screen that sits over the pan and holds back stones above pea size is enough for panning. A bucket carries gravel from a dry bar to still water, holds screened material and doubles as a seat.

The small pieces make the difference between seeing gold and keeping it. A snuffer bottle lifts flakes out of the pan in seconds; a small screw-capped vial filled with water holds them. A hand lens settles gold-or-mica questions on the spot. Assembled prospecting kits are often fine, but buying these pieces separately usually costs less and gets you the things you will actually use.

  • Medium pan with riffles, in a dark colour
  • Short-handled shovel or strong trowel
  • Pea-size classifying screen that fits over the pan
  • Bucket, ideally with a lid
  • Snuffer bottle and a water-filled vial
  • Hand lens

Digging and bedrock tools

Gold settles low, so the tools that reach low are the ones that pay. When you dig a bar, the aim is to get through the loose top gravel to the compact layer or the bedrock beneath it, and a small pick helps break packed gravel that a shovel bounces off. A pry bar lifts slabs and boulders, where heavies often collect in the gap underneath.

On exposed bedrock the work changes from shovelling to cleaning. A crevicing tool — a thin, bent strip of steel — scrapes packed sand out of cracks; a flat screwdriver or a bent spoon does the same job. A stiff brush sweeps the last material off the surface into a scoop or straight into the pan. Everything that comes out of a crack goes into the pan, fine clay included, because that is where fine gold hides.

Where cracks and pockets are under water, a hand-operated suction tube — a hand dredge or suction gun — pulls sand and water out of places fingers and scoops cannot reach. It is one of the most effective hand tools for bedrock. Bedrock work is slow and precise; expect to spend an hour on a few metres of good bedrock and to learn more from it than from a morning of surface gravel.

Concentrates: magnet, finishing pan and storage

Most days end with a container of concentrate rather than clean gold, and that is normal. A lidded bucket or jar keeps it from spilling on the way home. Finishing it at a table, in good light and with no current, recovers fine gold that is easy to lose on the bank. That is also where the finishing pan earns its place: a small pan gives fine control over a thin layer of sand.

A small, strong magnet removes magnetite, which is usually the bulk of black sand. Keep the magnet inside a plastic bag or use a magnet-on-a-stick, so that when you pull the magnet out the sand drops away cleanly. Fine gold can get trapped in clumps of magnetite, so run the magnetic fraction through a pan once before discarding it. What remains after the magnet is panned or worked slowly with very little water.

Store gold in a water-filled vial so flakes do not stick to the glass, and label each vial with place and date. One vial per spot turns a season of outings into a record you can compare. One firm rule: never use mercury to collect fine gold. It is toxic to you and to everyone downstream, and it stays in the stream for a long time.

Volume tools: when, and when not

A sluice box is a channel with riffles and matting along its floor. Water flowing over the riffles forms small eddies behind each one; heavy grains drop into those low-energy zones and are held by the matting while lighter material washes out of the end. It processes far more gravel than a pan, but it tells you nothing about where the gold is. That is why it comes after the pan: on a spot already proven by test pans.

A sluice only works when it is set up well. The slope should be steep enough that gravel does not pile up behind the riffles, yet gentle enough that the riffles are not scoured empty; you judge it by watching them. Feed slowly and evenly, screen the feed, and pan a sample of the tailings now and then. If the tailings show gold, slow down or reduce the slope. A highbanker, which is a pump-fed sluice, and motorised gear take this further in both volume and weight.

Rules on what equipment is allowed differ from place to place, and sluices, pumps, dredges and anything motorised are the gear most often restricted. Check what applies where you are going before you take any of it. A metal detector is a separate specialist tool: in the right ground it can find coarse gold on bedrock, but it will not find the fine gold that makes up most placer gold, and dense black sand can make it noisy.

Clothing, safety and carrying

The stream itself is the main hazard in this hobby. Wet rock, especially rock coated in algae, is where most injuries start, so footwear with good grip and ankle support matters more than any tool. In cold water, chest or hip waders let you work longer; in warm shallow streams, quick-drying trousers and boots are simpler and safer if you fall, because waders that fill with water are hard to move in.

Dress in layers that dry fast, cover your head and use sun protection — but keep sunscreen off your hands and the pan, since grease makes fine gold float. Neoprene gloves help in cold water; numb hands lose control of the pan. Leave a full set of dry clothes in the vehicle. You will get wet; what matters is being able to warm up afterwards.

Carry a small safety kit even on short trips, and tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back. A frame pack or a sturdy backpack with the pan strapped to the outside handles a day’s kit. Your phone is usually enough for navigation and for recording sample points, as long as you bring a battery pack.

  • Basic first-aid kit and a whistle
  • Headlamp
  • Space blanket
  • More water and food than you expect to need
  • A way to call for help where there is no signal, if you go remote
  • Battery pack for the phone

Maintenance and a last check before you leave

A plastic pan needs little care, but it dislikes two things: long hours of sun and grease. A pan left in the sun turns brittle over time, and a surface touched by oil, sunscreen or hand cream makes fine gold float. Rinse the pan after every trip and let it dry in the shade. If water beads up on its surface it has picked up grease; scrub it with sand and dish soap and rinse, repeating until water spreads evenly across it.

Steel tools rust in a wet bag, so dry the shovel, crevicing tool and pry bar when you get home. Brush grains out of the screen so that sand from one place does not end up in the next trip’s gravel. That matters more for your records than it sounds: if concentrate from two different spots mixes in one bucket, you can no longer tell which bar produced the colours.

A short check before leaving beats discovering what is missing at the stream. Are the pan and snuffer packed, is the vial full of water with its cap tight, are the phone and battery pack charged, and have you told someone where you are going? Anything that only makes sense once gold is proven — a sluice, a pump, large screens — can stay in the vehicle or at home. The point of a prospecting day is information, and a pan delivers it faster than anything heavier.

Quick answers

1What is the minimum kit for a first trip?

A pan, a small shovel or trowel, a screen, a snuffer bottle, a vial, and a small container to carry gravel to still water. Everything else is comfort or scale.

2Which shovel should I carry?

A short-handled, strong one you can use one-handed in a hole. Folding shovels are light but weak in packed gravel; a garden trowel and a small pick fill the gaps.

3What is a crevicing tool?

A thin, bent piece of steel used to scrape gold-bearing sand out of bedrock cracks. A flat screwdriver or a bent spoon does the job; a stiff brush and a small scoop finish it.

4What size screen do I need?

One coarse screen to remove stones above pea size is enough for panning. Finer screens help when concentrating material for a sluice or a finishing pan.

5What is a snuffer bottle?

A soft plastic bottle with a thin tube in the cap. Squeeze, touch the tube to a flake in the pan, release — the flake is sucked into the bottle. It is the fastest way to collect fine gold.

6Do I need a sluice box?

Not to start. A sluice is for processing a spot you have already proven with a pan. Buying one first tempts you to shovel gravel from wherever is convenient instead of where the gold is.

7What footwear works in a stream?

Boots with good grip and ankle support that you do not mind soaking, or wading boots. Wet rock is the main hazard in the hobby; smooth soles are the main cause of injury.

8Waders or not?

In cold water, yes — chest or hip waders keep you working longer. In warm shallow streams, quick-drying trousers and boots are simpler and safer if you fall.

9Should I bring a bucket?

Yes, at least one. Buckets carry gravel from a dry bar to still water, hold classified material, and double as a seat. A lid keeps a bucket of concentrate from spilling on the drive home.

10What about a magnet?

A small strong magnet removes magnetite from concentrate. Keep it inside a plastic bag or a magnet-on-a-stick so the sand drops away when you pull the magnet out.

11Is a metal detector useful in streams?

For coarse gold on bedrock, yes, in the right ground. Detectors do not find fine gold, which is most placer gold, and heavily mineralised black sand can make them noisy. They are a specialist tool, not a starter one.

12What is a hand dredge or suction gun?

A hand-operated tube that sucks sand and water out of bedrock cracks and pools where a shovel cannot reach. It is one of the most effective hand tools for cleaning bedrock.

13Do I need a GPS device?

Your phone usually is one. What matters is recording where each sample came from; a marker on a map with a note is enough. Carry a battery pack if the phone is your only navigation.

14What should be in a safety kit?

First-aid basics, a whistle, a headlamp, a space blanket, water and food beyond what you expect to need, and a way to call for help where there is no signal if you go remote.

15How do I carry everything?

A frame pack or a sturdy backpack with the pan strapped outside. Weight adds up: keep tools to what a day at one spot needs, and leave the rest in the vehicle.

16What is a finishing pan?

A small pan used only on concentrate — the black sand and heavies left after main panning. Its size gives control when separating fine gold from the last of the sand.

17What is a gold vial and how big?

A small glass or clear plastic tube with a screw cap. A few centimetres is plenty for a season of hobby gold; fill it with water so flakes do not cling to the walls.

18Do I need a loupe or magnifier?

A small hand lens helps decide whether a speck is gold or mica and lets you see the shape of grains, which tells you how far they travelled. Cheap and worth carrying.

19What clothing for a day on a stream?

Layers that dry fast, a hat, sun protection and a spare set of dry clothes in the vehicle. You will get wet; the question is whether you can get warm again.

20Should I buy a "prospecting kit"?

Assembled kits are usually fine but often include items you will not use. A pan, a screen, a snuffer, a vial and a trowel bought separately cost less and are chosen for you rather than for a shelf.

21How do I maintain a plastic pan?

Wash it, keep it out of prolonged sun, and never let oil or sunscreen touch its surface. Scrub a greasy pan with sand and dish soap; grease makes fine gold float away.

22What tools are for bedrock work?

A crevicing tool, a stiff brush, a small scoop, a hand dredge for wet cracks, and a pry bar for lifting slabs. Bedrock work is slow; the tools are small and precise.

23What is a highbanker and when would I use one?

A sluice fed by a pump so it can run above the water line. It is for processing proven ground in volume and is heavy and noisy; it is not a prospecting tool and its use is regulated in many places.

24How much does a starter kit weigh?

Light enough to forget: a pan, a trowel, a screen and small items fit in a daypack. A shovel and a bucket add the most bulk; carry them only when you plan to dig.

25What should I leave at home?

Anything that only makes sense once gold has been proven: sluices, pumps, large screens. On a prospecting day the goal is information, and a pan gives it faster than anything heavier.

Other sections

The map does the reading for you

GOLDONGO scores entire stream networks for the trap geometry this guide describes — slope breaks, inside bends, junctions and bedrock. Pick your region and see where it stands.

This guide is general education, not advice for a specific place. A score, a map or a sentence here is not a licence to dig: the rules for prospecting, land access and protected areas differ from place to place — learn the ones that apply where you are before you go.